The first time I visited the Zhoushan islands, in 2016, I was a younger man desperately trying to rescue a relationship with M. She was back home on vacation from NUS on Daishan, the second largest island of the archipelago in the East China Sea. To get to Daishan, one has to fly to either Ningbo or Shanghai, before getting on a bus, and then one or two ferries. Undeterred, I boarded my flight into Shanghai, whereupon missing my ferry connection that morning I embarked on a four-hour-long bus ride, followed by a boat, bus, and boat before finally arriving in Daishan just in time for dinner. I almost did not make the final connection because the high winds and waves that winter threatened to cancel the ferry. Providentially, I found my way, and with some more luck, our relationship persevered. 

Shuttling across the islands on multiple commuter ferries, one could almost feel the vast expanse of the ocean, and the rhythms of its movement shaping everyday life on the islands. Of course, even back then if one looked closely enough the horizons would sometimes be punctuated by massive bridges in various stages of construction. But for the most part, it was a breathtaking experience of feeling and listening to the ocean. With a population of 1.15m spread across over 1,300 islands (comprising nearly 1,440 sq km), but less than five per cent urban built-up area, the Zhoushan archipelago was a stark contrast to the neighbouring urban megalopolis of Ningbo or Shanghai. The magnificent ocean vistas and chilly air were a refreshing change, but for a Singaporean accustomed to hyper-efficiency and well-connected transportation systems, the lack of accessibility felt somewhat disconcerting. It was entirely possible to get “stuck” for days.